RC Car Suspension Setup Basics – Caster, Camber, Toe, Oil, Springs

On an RC car there are many components that you can fine tune to see optimal performance for your application. Tuning the suspension setup is just one of those items that should be considered when going for optimal performance. The suspension consists of a handful of different areas that can be fine tuned. If on the track you are fast, a really good suspension tune will make you faster. It’s very similar in tone to differential tuning which was covered in a previous article. If you are just a basher, a specific tune will allow you to make higher jumps. Included in our list for setup basics is spring rate, shock oil, caster, camber and toe.

Tuning Camber

Camber is best defined as the angle that the tire makes as it contacts the ground. Negative camber will have the top of the wheel angled towards the RC car. Where as positive camber will have the top of the wheel angled away from the car.

Typical Camber Settings for all 4 corners is between -2.0 to 0 degrees. It’s recommended to use a negative camber when racing a circuit that involves more corners. For straight line racing or offroad rock crawlers, a zero degree camber is a good place to start. It is very uncommon to see positive camber on most RC applications. If you are driving an RC tractor, look at positive camber.

Negative CamberPositive Camber
– Increased traction on front/rear wheels
while entering a corner
– Increased braking in to a corner.
– Instability in a straight line
– Reduced traction for straight line acceleration.
– Reduced straight line braking
– Premature tire wear
– Increased stability
– Less steering effort to turn wheels
– Reduced traction when entering a corner
– Reduced traction for straight line acceleration
– Reduced straight line braking
– Premature tire wear

If your suspension setup is stiff, you will require less negative camber since there will be less body roll in to corners.

Tuning Caster

Caster is best defined as the angle that the suspension makes between the upper and lower steering pivot points when viewed from the side of the vehicle. A good practical example would the looking from the side of the front wheel of a bicycle. A bicycle is known to have positive castor. A good example of negative castor could be found on the front wheels of a shopping cart.

On a bicycle, it is not too difficult to ride one without using your hands to steer. This is because of caster. Positive caster allows the front wheel to try and get back to center.

In general you always want positive castor for RC specific setups.

More Negative CasterMore Positive Castor
– Decreased steering effort
– Weaker in straight line tracking
– Less stable at higher speeds
– Improved straight line tracking
– More stable at higher speeds
– Increased steering effort
– Produces negative camber when cornering

Toe in / Toe Out Settings

Toe in an RC car setup refers to the angle that the tires make relative to the direction that they point in. This can be viewed directly from the top of the RC car. Toe out refers to tires that are pointed away from the car where toe in represents tires that are pointed inward.

Keep in mind that excessive toe can result in wasted power and increased levels of drag. Typical Toe ranges from -2.0 to 2.0 degrees in the front

Toe Out [negative toe] (Front Wheels on a 4WD vehicle)Toe In [positive toe] (Front Wheels on a 4WD vehicle)
– Reduced under steer
– help free up the car during initial turn in when
entering a corner
– Reduced over steer
– Enhanced high speed stability
Toe Out [negative toe] (Rear Wheels on a 4WD vehicle)Toe In [positive toe] (Rear Wheels on a 4WD vehicle)
– No real benefit– Improved grip
– Enhanced high speed stability

Suspension Shock Oil

The weight of oil that is used inside of the shock also known as the strut changes the dampening rate. A thicker oil will slow the piston inside the shock. A thinner oil will allow the piston to travel quicker inside of the strut. If the shock oil does not allow the piston to travel quickly when an RC car goes over a bump, the car can lose traction. If the shock oil allows the piston inside the strut to travel too quickly, the car is at risk of bottoming out.

Suspension Spring Rate

The springs ultimate purpose is to support the weight of the vehicle. The spring rate goes hand in hand with the shock oil weight used. If you plan to use a tighter setup, you will want a heavier oil with heavier springs. If you use a heavy oil with light springs, when the spring compresses while going over a bump, the light spring will not be able to extend the strut quick enough before it hits another bump. This will caused weak performance. Instead use a spring rate that matches the oil weight you plan to use.

Thicker / Heavier Shock OilThinner / Lighter Shock Oil
– Reduced traction on an off road / bumpy surfaces
– Reduced body roll in high speed turns
– Improved energy absorption in higher jumps (bashing)
– Reducing the odds the vehicle can bottom out
– Increased traction on off road / bumpy surfaces
– More body roll in high speed turns

Brushless Motors the Truth About Waterproof – Sensorless Sensored

In many applications of radio controlled vehicles, the brushless motor may come in contact with water. This could be as significant as being even fully submerged. Some manufactures of radio controlled vehicles advertise right on the box that the RC inside is waterproof. What does this mean? Is the brushless motor in the vehicle really waterproof?

First let’s understand that there are 2 different types of brushless motors that are important for our topic today. The first type is sensorless motors and the last type are sensored motors. Click the link to learn more.

Waterproof Sensorless Motors

The short answer here is that the sensorless brushless motor will indeed operate while being fully submerged, however not without wear and tear. Electrically there will be no issue at the lower voltages we typically run. Here is an example from my own experience when racing fast electric boats. Below is a picture of what the hull looks like. You can see at the back of the boat, that the entire brushless motor is exposed. This is known as an outboard motor as the motor is external to the boat. In the second image, you can see what the hull looks like when the boat flips. In the image, if you look closely you can see the small trail of disturbed water behind the path of the boat.

Fast Electric race boat

Fast Electric race boat

Operating a Brushless Motor Submerged in Water

Operating a Brushless Motor Submerged in Water

I was operating the boat upside down in order to return it back to shore. The brushless motor was able to operate without any issue. However, mechanically wear and tear does occur within the brushless motor. Let’s look at how and where.

Water is very good at penetrating small openings. It’s only a matter of time before water can find its way in. The shaft found on a brushless motor is supported by using a minimum of 2 bearings found on either side of the motor. Typical RC bearings found in brushless motors are shielded against debris from entering the ball bearing. The truth is brushless motors are water resistant however they are not really waterproof. Water is never pure in a lake or puddle or even rain. Small particles will find there way in to the bearings on a brushless motor delivered right from the water itself.

Over time this is what can destroy the bearings. Worn bearings on the motor can cause the rotor of the motor to contact the stator causing near permanent damage to the motor if spun up.

Also, depending on how your rotor was manufactured, you may find bulging or bubbling of the rotor material. These areas can also scrape along the stator causing damage.

Waterproof Sensored Motors

It is not recommended to place sensored motors in to a wet environment. Sensored motors have these components known as sensors (who would have guessed that?) inside the brushless motor that are not waterproof. A brushless motor would have to be entirely sealed to prevent water from entering the motor destroying the sensors. If you are looking at turning a sensored motor into a sensorless motor, water may be a good way to get you there.

Waterproof Motor Conclusion

If you do plan on running a brushless motor in wet conditions, careful inspection is required to ensure optimal condition. Checking the condition of all the internal motor parts would be a good way to prevent complete destruction of your motor. Sensored motors are not fit for operation in water unless otherwise noted by the manufacture. The same precautions would then apply.

Can the E-Flite 2.1m Carbon Cub Take off from Water on 4s?

The carbon cub was designed to run 6s. After all, this thing has a 2.1m (84in) wingspan. However, the airplane is also designed to operate on 4s and as such is advertised as 4s-6s. With this said, does 4s have enough power to get the E-Flite 2.1m Carbon Cub off the water?

While on 6s the power system is able to generate enough power for about 130 watts per pound. However on only 4s LiPo, there is only enough power for approximately 50 watts per pound. The difference is huge.

Here’s the video:

Can the 2.1m Carbon Cub take off from water on 4s LiPo?

Most important tool every RC Electric Hobbyist must have

Temperature Meter (temp gun)

Temperature Meter (temp gun)

The most important tool that every RC Electric Hobbyist must own is a temp (temperature) gun of some sort! You ask why? Well it will save you lots of money, that is why.

It doesn’t matter if you build your RC models or don’t. Having a temp gun in your toolbox will certainly help out. Heat is the worst enemy for any part of our electric power system. Managing the heat that is generated by our RC components is what will help save them. Too much heat that builds up in any electrical part of the power system can certainly destroy that component.

There are many temp guns out there that you can pick up. I have been using the Duratrax Flashpoint infrared temp gun for so many years. It is very easy to use and very cost effective.

 

How to use a Temp Gun Effectively

Periodic spot checks must become a standard for you as you run your RC vehicle. What you will want to do is every 5 runs of your RC vehicle, check the temperature of the brushless motor and electronic speed controller. To get an accurate reading, the measurement must be completed within 30 – 60 seconds of the RC vehicle coming to rest. Waiting too long may allow your heat sinks to remove heat providing you with a false reading. Next, you will want to use the temp gun as instructed in its manual. For best results, take measurements of many different locations on the motor and ESC. Allow the temp gun to read and retain the maximum temperature as you are taking readings from multiple different locations.

As your LiPo batteries begin to age, you will want to make certain that you are measuring the temperatures once every few runs. LiPo batteries will produce more heat when their internal resistance begins to rise as they age.

Factors that influence Temperature Readings

Keep in mind that there are many influences on the temperature of these components. These factors will skew your readings. What you want to watch out for is any sign that the power system is under higher then normal load. Here is a list of factors that can influence your running temperature.

  • Higher Ambient Temperatures (outdoor temperature for example)
  • Increased load on motor with aggressive throttle use
  • Binding of Driveline Components
  • Aging LiPo batteries
  • Length of Run Time

Using a Temp Gun for the First Run of a New Build

When running your setup for the first time, you want to be certain that you have selected conservative gearing or prop sizes. In RC Airplanes it is much easier to bench test your system. You are able to run up your motor and take measurements every 45 seconds.  For an RC car or boat build, you will have to run bring the vehicles in after 45 seconds. At this point take measurements of the motor, ESC and LiPo batteries.

If all  components are well under 140F/60C, run the vehicle for another 45 seconds and return to take measurements. Keep increasing the run time by 45 seconds if all components are under 140F/60C up to the maximum run time for your system.

If the temperature exceeds the safe limit, either the maximum allowable run time or maximum continuous load has been exceeded. Reduce the load and or run time and check the system again.

Determining Maximum Run Time

In the process described above, determine your total run time that will drain 80% capacity of your LiPo’s. Each time you run the vehicle for the 45 second period and reach about 3 total minutes, it would be a good idea to record how many mAh is placed back in to the LiPo Battery. Determine the amount of mAh that is placed back in the battery by charging the single battery and recording the value on the charger.

For example – If you were to get a 4 minute 15 seconds run time and replace 4000mAh from a 5000mAh battery, this should be considered your maximum run time. 80% of the batteries capacity has been drained. This is to ensure Long LiPo life while getting the better part of a batteries discharge curve.

To the run time calculator to help calculate run time based off of elapsed time and capacity placed in to the pack.

Application of using High or Low Motor / ESC Timing

Most hobbyists who operate electric RC vehicles understand that motor timing can be controlled. The questions is how many actually change the timing of their setup? If you haven’t already read the article on timing, click the link to view the article.

Applications of High and Low Motor Timing

Applications of High and Low Motor Timing

Do you have to change timing?

The short answer to this question is you generally don’t need to. Many ESC’s whether sensorless or not have a default setting that works well with most brushless motors. Performance of these ESC’s are already operating in a range that is suitable for many applications. Years ago I was messing around with timing a lot more than I am today. In fact it is very rare that I will change the default settings of an ESC in terms of timing.

When should you change Timing?

There are a few reasons why you would want to open up the software for your ESC and make a change to the settings. Here are those few key reasons listed below:

  1. Your brushless sensorless motor is not operating correctly
  2. To squeeze more RPM out of your brushless motor setup.
  3. Setup is operating with high temperatures.

Application of Using High Timing

If your RC car, boat or plane is not operating at the speed you are hoping for, changing the timing may get you there. Changing motor timing is not going to add a significant amount of speed. It is something you are able to adjust if going up a prop size or pinion gear size is too much. Or it is something you can adjust since it’s quite easy to do and does not cost anything other than time.

Before changing the timing, you will want to be certain that your power system is not operating at its maximum thermal potential. If so, you do not have the room necessary to increase timing. Increasing the timing will certainly add heat to your system. Upon an increase to timing you will also want to re-check the temperatures of your power system components. This will ensure that you are still operating within spec.

Application of Using High Timing – Synchronization Issues

If you have a motor that you spin up and it starts making a loud screeching type noise and slowing down, you should try changing the motor timing. The screeching noise is a telltale sign that the brushless motor you are running is losing its synchronization with the ESC. Increasing motor timing may help solve this issue.

Application of Using Low Timing

Low motor timing is commonly used on motors that have a low magnetic pole count and a hot wind. This may be something similar to a one turn, 4 pole brushless motor with a Delta wind termination.  These high strung motors do not like high motor timing. Other applications for low motor timing is to maximize run time, power efficiency and torque. If you need the most amount of torque in your setup, use low motor timing.

Changing Timing, Where to Start

Plan to experiment with motor timing and do not know where to start? The perfect place to start when adjust timing is on the low end. Low timing offers the least amount of performance. As you are increasing timing you will want to monitor temperatures to ensure that you do not exceed maximums. It is also best to monitor performance to understand how much of an increase you are seeing or not seeing.

Keep in mind, if you hear screeching from the motor while operating on low timing, try increasing the timing and try again.

In general motors with more magnetic poles tend to prefer higher timing settings.